Walking home from the station saw me stuck in the worst rain I have encountered in Madrid thus far. I was soaked the whole way through. Nothing some nice flannelette pyjama pants, a rugby jersey and a cup of coffee couldn't solve... a cup, perhaps with a little whiskey...but now I am here.
So what should I start with? This is the question that has been plaguing me for the last two months but now it seems blindingly obvious. First impressions.
1. Spaniards are extraordinarily hospitable
If you think Aussies are super friendly and helpful, the Spaniards are even more so. From the first moment I arrived I was welcomed by people. My host mother picked me up from the airport, helped me with my things, and made me lunch. My room was set up beautifully; clean, warm and with all the things I needed.
At the school I am working in I was greeted by all the teachers in my faculty, and invited to have coffee and lunch. Even now the principal of the primary school asks me how I am every time she sees me. I am constantly being asked by people to come to their family gatherings and meet this relative and that, that might show me around or be interested in talking to me in English.
My first weekend there my host family invited me to a family party in a city two hours away, near Ciudad Real. The party went for two days and involved snacks, lunch, dinner, dessert, unlimited beer and a night flowing with spirits.
Before and after lunch we gathered around the bullfighting ring (yes my host family's sister in law's family has their own bull fighting ring) and many people played at being a 'torero' using red 'muletas' or capes. There was no violence though, and some of the people in the party even convinced me to have a turn in the ring. It was lots of fun!
My family put me up in my own hotel room for the sake of my own comfort. The host of the party regularly asked me how I was and if I was enjoying myself, and many people who hardly knew a word of English made a huge effort to try and talk with me and keep me entertained.
Things haven't changed much. My family always invites me to their events, treats me as a family member and a guest. My host mother always reminds me that if there is anything at all I want or need food wise or for my room, I can just ask.
2. This doesn't mean they are pushovers
This point was given to me by the organiser of my internship course. Spaniards do hospitality very well, but they also expect a similar generosity in return, even if they don't ask for it. To quote that particular man, "If you are out with some other teachers and they are going to get another round of beer, offer to pay for it even if you know they won't let you. At least reach for your wallet or coat pocket."
Returning Spanish hospitality doesn't always mean paying for drinks, it can be as little as remembering to pour water into the glasses of the teachers sitting near you at the dining table, asking people about their weekends or how they are, and for those with poor or no English, learning a few questions and phrases in Spanish to make them feel welcome by you. Oh, and don't forget to bring a little something to share if you're going somewhere or visiting a home.
Spaniards, at least in Madrid, are very strong willed and warm. If you don't want to offend, keep an open mind, try everything you're given, come everywhere you're invited and learn to embrace the fact that...
3. Spaniards love their culture
It won't take you long to realise that Australia is vastly different to Spain. Spain and Spanish culture has been around for more than a thousand years, while our idea of "Australian culture" is not even 250 years old. So in a space smaller than New South Wales they have a very diverse culture, and driving 30 minutes to an hour out of Madrid can find you in a completely different way of life.
Spaniards love this. They love their culture, their food and their language, and they want you to love it too. Therefore, don't come to Spain subconsciously expecting Australia. You will be disappointed, and not because one is better than the other, but merely because you need to keep your mind open to living life in a way you're not used to.
Food
One negative is that Spain does not have a lot of authentic international food places. In Madrid you can find kebab houses, pizza and the odd asian food shop, but it is nothing compared the ethnic authenticity and diversity you can find in Sydney. You will be left craving some things, like I do...gozleme, laksa and countless other foods.
But what Spain lacks in multicultural diversity, it makes up for in cultural diversity. In each region there is something new and different to taste; paella from Valencia, gazpacho from Andalucia etc. All these things are delicious, exciting and steeped in history and tradition. There are things I would never had thought of eating in Australia that are some of my favourite foods in Spain; lentils, fish neck (ventresca) and a chicken and pork broth with noodles in it (some part of cocido madrileño).
Wherever you go, expect to eat many small things washed down with a beer or a wine. It cannot be done any other way. Tapas are available at almost every place, from cafes, to grungy 'cafeterias' and even restaurants. If you don't like beer, wine or cured meats, you will be overwhelmed in Spain. There are plenty of alternatives, but vegans may find it hard to find places to eat out.
Lifestyle
Family, food and friendship go hand in hand in the Spanish culture. One cannot be without the other. While days might be long, there is always time for people and food. Lunch is generally at 2pm and takes from 1-2 hours. At my school the lunch break is from 1:30-3:10pm. This kind of lunch break is unheard of in Australia, but for Spaniards its important to sit down and enjoy a meal and a drink with company no matter where you are.
On the weekend there is no sense of time, especially if you are with family. Lunch can stretch to dinner. There really isn't space for multiple plans if you're visiting family. For younger people one night out stretches into the next day. I haven't tried it, but even tame clubbing can go til 7am the next day...maybe because people don't get smashed off their faces in a few short hours, like they do in Australia.
I'm still learning the Spanish ways so I'll end on this last point; Spaniards dress 50x better than Australians. If you're coming from Australia and want to fit in, don't even bring any clothes. The fashion here is nice and not too expensive.
Sights
No matter how much you miss the Australian coast, take your time to appreciate what Spain has to offer. It is hard not to go on and on and on and on and on about the natural beauty Australia has to offer, but for the sake of making and keeping friends, shut your mouth sometimes. Don't make comparisons all the time. I'm living in Madrid and it has so much historical beauty.
The city is filled with old buildings and cobbled streets. There is not a boring corner. If you have your eyes open there is always something interesting; an old street sign painted with donkeys, a 120 year old churro cafe, a boutique cap store and a shirt store with everything you can image as a print.
Nature wise, the place is amazing. I have only been to the mountains twice, but the forest is beautiful and the views awe inspiring. Just see for yourself:
But what makes the nature best, is that it is always accompanied by some generous Spaniards wanting to help you to love their country and their people....and I can say, I have never drunk wine on a mountain hike before, but when in Spain!!
Loved this Alex! Very thorough and entertaining, loved the bit about jamon, hope you're not sick of it yet :)
ReplyDeleteFantastically enlightening and I feel as though I get to experience all your great adventures with you. Enjoy!
ReplyDeleteVery thorough and enjoyable. Thank you for a unique perspective on our two cultures.
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